Budapest: Open Streets

There is no substitute for showing up.

Vaci utca

Back in the spring my wife mentioned the idea of going on a trip to Europe, something we hadn't done for quite a while. We contacted another couple who are dear friends and good traveling companions, and we decided to go to Budapest, partly because none of us had ever been there. One motivation was to find out more about how the people managed to throw out a dictator. 

As I was reading the Lonely Planet guide for Budapest, I stumbled across a reference to an open street called Vaci utca and a related square called Vorosmarty ter. (Utca means street in Hungarian; ter means square.) The others agreed that we could carve out a little time to humor my idiosyncracies. 

We found the street and the square pretty easily. They, and all the other open spaces we'll be talking about, are located in the heart of the old downtown. I could talk your ear off, but instead I'll show you pictures and make comments in appropriate places.

Here are a few more shots of Vaci utca and the small side streets that have also become open streets.

I mainly took this picture for the manhole cover, but it also strikes me that a streetery on an open street would probably not require extensive crash protection.

Here's an interesting miniature street sculpture. Ravens are a big deal in Hungary. There's a long story about why, which I won't bother you with.

Vorosmarty ter

Vaci utca runs into Vorosmarty ter, a large open space that provides a nice counterpoint to the narrow street. What you're looking at above is just a part of the square, but it's a very interesting part. Under the awning, and in the building behind the awning, is a restaurant known particularly for its pastries. Cafe Gerbeaud was founded in 1858 and arrived at its present location in 1870. To the right of the awning is an exit for the M1 subway line. Opened in 1896, M1 is the oldest electrified underground railway in continental Europe. 

Vaci utca

Let's go back to Vaci utca for a bit.

I thought you might enjoy this sculpture of the writer Gyula Krudy (1878-1933). 

A few blocks from Vorosmarty square, we found the Dohany street synagogue, which anchors the historically Jewish section of Budapest. 

Near the synagogue we found we found the Gozsdu udvar. (Udvar means courtyard.) This is a group of seven residential buildings and six interconnecting courtyards built in 1901. Many, many people have tables here where they sell stuff, and it's all quite a lot of fun. 

Not far from the Goszdu bouquet of courtyards there is a street called Kazinczy utca. This is apparently the party street in Budapest, and it even has something called a ruin bar. 

Here's another open block. Still Kazinczy, but a bit less scruffy.

Now let's walk a few blocks to St. Stephen's basilica. It is amazing how close together these sites are. 

Here we are on a street called Zrinyi utca. It is an open street, and it forms a pilgrim's path leading to the basilica, which you see in the background here. 

There are cross streets. 

And here is a delivery truck. Yes, this is a pedestrian street, but some vehicles do have access.

Here's one way to provide authorized access - a retractable bollard and a separate post that appears to house the controls for the bollard. As for the post on the left, I have no idea what it does, other than just stand there.

I should add that St. Stephen's was the only place where I saw retractable bollards in Budapest. But I think they are the best solution, and they have been around for a while. We saw them in Prague in 2013. 

Here is a view from the steps of St. Stephen's, back across St. Stephen's square (Szent Istvan ter), and with Zrynyi utca in the background.

And then there was Philadelphia

Can we do open streets like this in Philadelphia? I think so. The most obvious opportunity for a long open street like Vaci utca is Locust street between Rittenhouse square and Washington square. We're a long way from getting there. 

If you're interested in nibbling at Locust street, I suggest you look at the 1600 and 1700 blocks. Institutions like St. Mark's church and the Curtis institute might well find an open street at their front door an asset rather than a liability, and a number of restaurants and small shops might well be sympathetic. Many of these buildings have rear access on Latimer street, Schubert alley, St. James street, and Chancellor street.

And an open street on these blocks would also relieve pressure on the park in Rittenhouse square, where on fine days an open bench is often a very scarce commodity.

I'd mention the Italian Market, but I think that's a lost cause.

There are also a number of single blocks in this neighborhood that are good candidates for the open streets treatment. My favorites are the 1300 block of Drury street, home of McGillin's olde ale house; the 1400 block of Moravian, next to the Union league; the 1500 block of Sansom; the 1700 block of Moravian; and the 2000 block of Moravian. The links below will take you to more information.

See also Change Comes to Walnut Street, What Happened to the Chestnut Street Transitway, In Defense of Disgusting Alleys, We're Actually Winning, Small Streets Are Like Diamonds, Transportation Should Not Trump Destination, This Isn't Just Any Alley, About that Parking Lot in South Philly, Alleys.